A very important detail on lace wigs is the type of the lace. We know some basic types (swiss, french, german) but there are a lot others. For theatrical use, there are opera, film and HD film laces, there are nylon mononet, vegetable net, mesh lace, back lace, wonder lace. The same in every laces is that they are all bobbinets which means, they have hexagonal holes and they shouldn’t fray away. Opera and film lace sometimes fray, but it’s not so bad because they are treated properly by experts. They are not for everyday use.
Anyway, what I want to talk about is korean lace. Full lace wigs for bonding/taping were used by black women in the US (now disregard Europeans) since a long time, and initially they were produced by american wig makers. Than Koreans realized this greate opportunity to make money, they copied the technique and started to produce full lace wigs from cheap asian hair and materials. After that, China copied it the same way, but South Korea started the import.
Most of the readers probably know some chinese lace wig manufactures, like Bestlacewigs,RPG show and others. They produce pretty much the same wigs, with very similar quality. There are many of womens who only know this type of full lace wigs, and lace fronts. Maybe they are wondering, why is it written everywhere that swiss lace is so fragile and sensitive. They use swiss lace wigs since years and it never frays or tears. It’s because asian wig making manufactures use korean lace. That type of lace is a stronger version of swiss lace. Made by the same way as swiss lace with a similar machine, but the difference is that they make it much stronger than french, german or swiss laces. Anyway, people usually don’t know, but french lace is actually belgian lace. It came from Brussels. Back to the topic, Koreans actually have a good reason to make lace for themselves and for Chinese. They use siff and thick asian hairs for their wigs. It’s much harder to make thight, small knots with asian hair. They have to pull the strands pretty hardly, what would tear a fine fragile cotton swiss lace, so they need to work on something stronger.
Korean lace is much visible compared to real swiss lace or other non-asian laces. When I’ve first bought lace from Switzerland, i was suprised, how fragile it is. I also teared it many times, till i learnd how to manage the needle. Also, korean lace is more dureable. Koreans don’t want to risk that the customers tear the lace and send it back as waste.
Swiss, french and german laces are made for european and synthetic hairs.
The other korean thing is “hard lace” or heat sensitive mono-lace, thermo-lace. You can find them on almost every american brand’s wigs. They have very small holes, there are no darts on them, they are hard, less breathable and somethimes itchy on skin. Wig makers usually avoid that kind of lace. It needs a smaller needle, a better functioning eye and more patience. Anyway, if you want buy lace like that, search welded caps.
So there are pros and cons on korean lace. It’s more durable and wont stretch, tear or fray away, but it’s also more visible from close. For a really natural look, real swiss or french lace is definitely needed. Korean lace is not available in wig making supplies, so you won’t find it used by individual wig makers.
This is how it looks like: